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A year ago today my constant companion, Scruffy, lost his short battle with lymphoma.  He had chosen us 6 years earlier to be his humans, and during his all too brief time with us this amazing Greek border collie mix, wise beyond anyone’s imagination, led us on journeys across Greece and around the globe. But an Athenian dog at heart – though we know not of his true origins he claimed us in Pangrati – his favorite walk was up the tall hill with the tiny church on top. No cars honking, lots of cats to wag tail at …. In his memory I’m reposting his one and only guest blog post on true-athens.com. 

Scruffy the Dog Writes:

It’s best to leave for walking trips in Athens early in the day. If you go too late, it gets uncomfortably (and sometimes dangerously) hot, especially when you have a thick, fluffy coat like mine. Kostas, my human brother, woke me up at around 0700, fed me, grabbed some treats, and away we went.

On our way to Lykavittos
Scruffy en route to Lykavittos

I have always thought the walk would be really long, but one thing I’ve learned about Athens is that everything is closer than it appears. From my apartment to Lykavittos is about 2.5 km (1.6 miles) when it looks to be closer to 5 km (~4 miles).

We walked past the National Art Museum, Athens Hilton, and Evaggelismos Hospital before we started to climb the stairs on Marasli street.

I think the hardest part of the walk was the stairs. I couldn’t understand why Kostas wouldn’t just take the bus up to the St. George Lykavittos Hotel on the hill, but he kept walking and I kept following because this kid usually takes food with him when he takes me out and I wasn’t about to miss out.

We finally got near the entrance to the teleferik (cable car) that goes up the mountain and I saw him walking towards it but he blew past it, and took the footpath up the mountain instead. I was kind of hoping we could take the teleferik up there, but I don’t think it starts running until 0930 or 1000.
Scruffy Trail to top of lykavittos

I was surprised at how nice it looked. It was paved with cobblestone most of the way, and where it wasn’t paved there was packed gravel, which made for a pretty easy walk to the top. It took about 20 minutes to get up there, but with every turn on our way up the views got better.

athenspanoramic from halfway up lykavittos

When we did reach the top there was an old man cleaning the area around the church and the bell tower with a hose and a broom. It felt nice to lay on the cool, wet marble, drink some water and have a couple of treats.

top of lykavittos church of st george lykavittos
We started the walk down from the top and walked past the Greek Parliament and the National Gardens before we got home.

lykavittos_overhead
It was a nice walk and we got to see a lot. I wonder where we are off to next?

By Athensguide

How does a little girl from Skokie, Illinois find herself in historical Athens, leading curious explorers through the winding streets of Plaka, down "pezodromos" to hidden ouzeries for tempting mezedhes and homemade barrel wine? The journey began more than twenty years ago, and regardless of whether the wanderlust comes from the spiritual and culture DNA flowing through my veins, or the alignment of the stars on that cold mid-December day this Sagitterian came into the world, I never seem to tire of exploring my adopted homeland of Greece. Here you'll join me as I explore Athens: be it the back streets of Psirri and Gazi, or through the National Gardens and Zappeio where a family of turtles makes their home, or down wide, treelined Imittou Street in Pagrati, which pulses with Athenian life 24 hours a day. And while Athens has stolen my heart, the rest of Greece vies for my curiousity and wanderlust. My two guys (that'd be the Greek God, Vasilis and our Greek dog, Scruffy) and I can often be found settling in for a long weekend in some charming mountain village, or a quaint fishing port on a nearby island, or learning how Greek vitners are producing wines that rival some of Napa Valley's finests productions, or celebrating a panayeri in Epirus or sharing in the festivities as a family of Cretan sheepherders come together to sheer their 1500 sheep in the spring ... And if you happen to find yourself heading to Athens, consider finding yourself a real home for your stay. Living amongst the locals, be it for 3 nights or 3 weeks, will offer you the chance to experience true Athens, beyond the Acropolis. Choose from one of our 5 beautiful penthouse and historical homes, and who knows, I may be leading you down that winding "pezodromo" to our favorite hidden ouzerie!