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Zinodotou 6, Pagrati – 210-721-0707


Athens is full of little pita shops, and everyone has their favorites. But most shops sell one or two, maybe three “styles” of pitas, from the flaky filo wrapped, to the thick, bread crusted traditional “horiatiki” or village, pita.  You’ll even find pizza pie shapped pans filled with scrumptous rich, buttery tiropita (cheese pie) traditional of north central to northern Greece.  But in all of our years of pita tasting in Athens, we hadn’t run into a carry-out place which served traditional Cretan pitas. And now we have.





Kalitsunaki takes its name from the Kalitsouni, which is like the Italian Calzone. Which came first, is probably one of those great unanswered questions like which came first, the chicken or the egg. The Italians were in Crete. Who influenced whom, I’ll leave that for others to decide.

Nonetheless, the only similarity between the two is that they are fillings wrapped in dough, and pressed down at their ends making them half circle in shape.


This is a breath of fresh air in the myriad Tyropita stands that crowd Athens. They all seem to buy their tiropitas and spanakopitas from the same place.

Kalitsouni are wrapped in a flaky dough made with olive oil instead of butter, the result a not greasy, crisp and thin crust which lets the full flavor of the filling do all the work on your taste buds. It is merely the vessel for the tasty ingredients.

It was breakfast time and this hit the spot. We tried all their kaltsounis:

The dough is very thin, crisp and flaky.

Monastiriako* Myzithrenio, from mizithra, a local soft cheese with a very distinct flavor.

Monastiriako* Anamikto (Monestary style, mixed) with mizithra and spinach

Monastiriako* Hortarino (Monestary style, vegetarian) with spinach

Ageliko** Myzithrenio, from mizithra, a local soft cheese with a very distinct flavor.

Ageliko** Anamikto (Monestary style, mixed) with mizithra and spinach

There are two types of kaltsouni:

*Monastiriako (Monestary style) the shape is triangular and

**Ageliko (Angel style) the shape is square

They also have a pizza made from the same dough baked on a flat grill with apaki, syglino, chicken and gyros, as well as several types of “dakos”, a traditional Cretan salad served atop a crispy and crunchy bread, drizzled in olive oil and topped with various ingredients such as feta, tomatoes, Greek olives, and mixed greens. And, what would a Cretan shop be without a friendly Cretan owner, generously sharing the “spirit of Crete”?


For now you have to venture to Imittou Street in Pagrati to enjoy this treat, but my guess is, soon there will be Kalitsunaki shops elsewhere in Athens.


By Athensguide

How does a little girl from Skokie, Illinois find herself in historical Athens, leading curious explorers through the winding streets of Plaka, down "pezodromos" to hidden ouzeries for tempting mezedhes and homemade barrel wine? The journey began more than twenty years ago, and regardless of whether the wanderlust comes from the spiritual and culture DNA flowing through my veins, or the alignment of the stars on that cold mid-December day this Sagitterian came into the world, I never seem to tire of exploring my adopted homeland of Greece. Here you'll join me as I explore Athens: be it the back streets of Psirri and Gazi, or through the National Gardens and Zappeio where a family of turtles makes their home, or down wide, treelined Imittou Street in Pagrati, which pulses with Athenian life 24 hours a day. And while Athens has stolen my heart, the rest of Greece vies for my curiousity and wanderlust. My two guys (that'd be the Greek God, Vasilis and our Greek dog, Scruffy) and I can often be found settling in for a long weekend in some charming mountain village, or a quaint fishing port on a nearby island, or learning how Greek vitners are producing wines that rival some of Napa Valley's finests productions, or celebrating a panayeri in Epirus or sharing in the festivities as a family of Cretan sheepherders come together to sheer their 1500 sheep in the spring ... And if you happen to find yourself heading to Athens, consider finding yourself a real home for your stay. Living amongst the locals, be it for 3 nights or 3 weeks, will offer you the chance to experience true Athens, beyond the Acropolis. Choose from one of our 5 beautiful penthouse and historical homes, and who knows, I may be leading you down that winding "pezodromo" to our favorite hidden ouzerie!

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