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Ok so “koutouki” doesn’t mean smokehouse, it means more like “joint” as in “Joe’s Place”.  But given the sign outside defiently proclaims “We smoke here” and the signs adorning the walls of the interior of this cozy, hidden away taverna on a narrow back street in Kaisargianni (a replica of an Athens street sign proclaims “Smoker’s Street”), the term “smokehouse” could be applied to the dining room if you happen to show up after 9:30 or 10:00 pm when the place is packed with locals.

Given my warnings, you may be tempted to move on to another restaurant … but if you are looking for budget bests, don’t move on, just go early, they’re open everyday from 7:30 pm (Sundays and holidays they’re open for lunch, call to find out what time they start, but I’m guessing around 1 pm), so there is no reason that the savvy traveler can’t get in and out before the smokers pack the place. Why, you might ask, would we want to patronize a place like this when there are so many other, less smoky, choices?

Guests at this restaurant fill in their orders on the provided checkbook.

It’s a budget best: plates packed with piles of tasty food, prices that are friendly enough to the students at the nearby university that groups of them squeeze into the long tables that line the tiny dining room, reminding me of the traditional one room schoolhouse.  The economics of it are simple: when you can’t decide what to eat, Koutouki on Lydias is affordable enough that you can order 7 or 8 items to split between 4 people, share and taste them all, and still end up with a bill at the end that’s tastier and significantly less than anyplace you’ll find in touristy Plaka or trendy Psirri. (On our last visit, even the 6 teenaged boys adjacent to us could not finish everything they ordered, and anyone who has raised a male teen can tell you that it is rate for them to be unable to finish all of the food within their reach!)

Once you’ve found this koutouki, located a couple of streets off the main square in Kaisargianni (see my map and directions), you’ll probably be greeted by owner Elias, who’ll seat you and bring you a checkbook and pencil along with the menus.  This do it yourself style ordering is fine if you’re bilingual and can read and write Greek, but if you are reading this the chances are pretty good that you don’t speak, read and write Greek – so we’ve offered a translation of the menu here, which you can bring along and hand to Elias to let him know just what you’d like from his extensive menu.

On our most recent visit, we ordered way too much for 4 of us to finish:

The bigger isn't always better, these whopper sized zuchinni fritters run a close second to our most favorite in Athens.

Fava, kolokythokeftedes (zuchini fritters), beets with garlic sauce, stuffed spicy peppers, keftedes (meatballs), tas kebab (a house specialty, a meaty, near eastern spiced stew in tomato sauce) which we washed down with several carafes of wine and some tsipouro.

The flavorful order of fava was too much for us to finish!
Beet with skordalia, garlice sauce - which we did manage to finish.
Stuffed Peppers
Tas kebab, tender chunks of meat simmered in a near-eastern flavored tomato sauce

Our bill? Under 45 euro, and enough food for a 5th person to have joined us.

Budget dining in Athens, under 10 minutes from Plaka for 10 euro per person

Koutouki tis Lydias is located at 35 Lydias, Kaisargianni (Kessariani), Athens. It’s a bit hard to find, being that it is tucked away off of the big square, on a narrow pedestrian only street, but for budget eating it’s worth finding. Call ahead to ensure they are open, particularly in August/September:  . +30 210 7230586  Mobile.  +30 6939 687 494

By Athensguide

How does a little girl from Skokie, Illinois find herself in historical Athens, leading curious explorers through the winding streets of Plaka, down "pezodromos" to hidden ouzeries for tempting mezedhes and homemade barrel wine? The journey began more than twenty years ago, and regardless of whether the wanderlust comes from the spiritual and culture DNA flowing through my veins, or the alignment of the stars on that cold mid-December day this Sagitterian came into the world, I never seem to tire of exploring my adopted homeland of Greece. Here you'll join me as I explore Athens: be it the back streets of Psirri and Gazi, or through the National Gardens and Zappeio where a family of turtles makes their home, or down wide, treelined Imittou Street in Pagrati, which pulses with Athenian life 24 hours a day. And while Athens has stolen my heart, the rest of Greece vies for my curiousity and wanderlust. My two guys (that'd be the Greek God, Vasilis and our Greek dog, Scruffy) and I can often be found settling in for a long weekend in some charming mountain village, or a quaint fishing port on a nearby island, or learning how Greek vitners are producing wines that rival some of Napa Valley's finests productions, or celebrating a panayeri in Epirus or sharing in the festivities as a family of Cretan sheepherders come together to sheer their 1500 sheep in the spring ... And if you happen to find yourself heading to Athens, consider finding yourself a real home for your stay. Living amongst the locals, be it for 3 nights or 3 weeks, will offer you the chance to experience true Athens, beyond the Acropolis. Choose from one of our 5 beautiful penthouse and historical homes, and who knows, I may be leading you down that winding "pezodromo" to our favorite hidden ouzerie!