Author: Athensguide

Oinothyra, Understated & off the beaten path

One of our favorite places to go when we’re seeking out a bit of creativity on our plates, without the “show” that usually goes along with those kinds of places. There is no pretense at Oinothira, just lovingly prepared, fresh food at this hidden away gem behind the church across from the Square in Kaisarianni called Oinothira (Makariou 13 at Chris. Smirnis Sts. 210/72.58.428. Call if you are visiting in August, they generally close at some point during the month, although now with tables kaddy corner for additional outside dining, they may remain open more weeks in August). This understated little NON SMOKING restaurant serves wonderful Greek creations like a seasonal seafood and artichoke salad, various seafood pastas as well as an awesome seasonal “astako macaronada” (spaghetti with lobster).  But the real surprise were the stuffed sardines. I’m not a fan of sardines in general, but I figure that any chef who takes the time to actually stuff these tiny fish deserves my respect enough for me to try them, and I was certainly glad I did. While it hasn’t made me a fan of unstuffed sardines, I liked them enough to be disappointed when I visited again and they weren’t on the menu (sardines are sensitive to the full moon, and since they’re fished at night, a full moon causes them to dive deep beyond the reach of the fishermen)....

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How to dine like a Greek

You’ve found a restaurant that looks good to you. There are lots of people so you know the food is fresh. You survey the restaurant and locate an empty table. There is no host or hostess so you have to take care of yourself. You walk over to the table and occupy it. If there are more of you than there are chairs, get two or three adjoining tables and put them together. If the table is dirty, you can wait and someone will clean it up. If it is clean, sit down and wait. There is no assigned...

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Underground Art and Archaeology

Have you found yourself in Athens on a holiday, and the sites are closed? Or perhaps it’s a rare rainy day and you’d like to find a way to stay under cover, yet still see some sites? How about an Athens Art and Archeology tour, by metro? As you can imagine, digging anywhere in Athens runs the risk of digging up something, so imagine when the city began constructing an underground railway system that runs directly through the entire downtown area? The result is perhaps the largest archeological excavation project every undertaken! In all, an area of almost 50...

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Sometimes it rains in Athens … but that’s ok!

Greece, land of sunshine, true. But every once in awhile there are a few days of rain. It can happen anytime. I’ve seen 3 days of rain in June, I’ve seen 3 days of rain in August, Looks like we’re looking at 3 days of rain in November … No need to fret if it happens that you’ve arrived to a cloudy, rainy Athens. There is plenty to do in Greece’s capital city when it rains. Athens is full of museums, of course, and one of the things I personally love about rainy days is that it gets me...

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Three days in Thisseio

Although I’m a Pagrati girl to the core, every once in awhile I get a chance to go on vacation in Athens, heading across the historical center, and landing at a lovely, romantic Neo-Classical home just off the Grand Promenade which wraps around the Acropolis and Ancient Agora. Recently we spent three days and three nights in Thisseio, visiting our longtime favorite restaurants, and exploring parts of the neighborhood we didn’t know so well. It was an activity packed, food filled midweek break that reminded me of what a great base Thisseio makes for exploring the heart of Ancient...

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